Escape to East Cape

By Chris Roberts

The term "East Cape" applies to a large swath of excellent fishing spots rather than one town or an urban area. In fact, it's hard to find any map with East Cape on it, although those who love it distinguish the region in various Baja fishing books. Generally, the East Cape covers Los Barriles, Buena Vista, Punta Colorado, Cabo Pulmo National Park and Bahía Los Frailes.

Click here to see a map of the area.

Experts say it is here that the Sea of Cortez truly begins. Anglers find family-run hotels and swim up bars at lesser prices than Cabo San Lucas. The East Cape is as far away from the Los Cabos International Airport as Cabo San Lucas, and worlds apart for nightlife. It's also a rival in many ways for fishing enthusiasts. Many people claim it's the best part of Los Cabos, incorporating a frontier spirit where legends and lore were born.

"John Wayne never stayed here," says Robert Van Wormer, owner of Hotel Las Palmas de Cortez. "He mostly stayed in Cabo and La Paz on his boat, Wild Goose. So much for the myth of Duke sleeping in every Mexican hotel." But Desi Arnaz was a regular - he'd fly into Loreto, and then come to Los Barriles.

Whether you drive down and stay in an RV park or fly in and check into a comfortable hotel, you are in for the trip of your life. Los Barriles isn't much of a town, although there is a market with a good selection of merchandise, plus a well-stocked tackle shop with equipment at U.S. prices. Most of the hotels offer their own meals, entertainment and sporting options like horseback riding and quad-runners.

There is no golf, nightlife or phones. Some will tell you that the East Cape is not for everyone, but that's the whole point - being removed from the outside world is what visitors find so appealing. From December to March, the beaches of Los Barriles swarm with brightly colored hi-tech windsurfers. Inspiring sunrises replace the more familiar sunsets of Cabo San Lucas. One thing that Los Barriles does boast about is the East Cape Smoke House, which will pick up your fresh catch at the boat, transport it to its facility, smoke it and freeze it for your trip home.

One of the area's original lodges is Rancho Buena Vista, built in 1952 by Robert Van Wormer's close friend Herb Tansey. When Tansey died in a plane crash in 1959, U.S. Army Colonel Gene Walters purchased the 12-room retreat and catered to celebrities like James Garner, Richard Boone and Chuck Conners. Walters' grandson, Mark, now operates the expanded hotel with 50 rooms, thatched roof bar, large pool and expansive beach. Rates include three meals daily. The fleet of 15 fishing boats (and experienced captains) round out the amenities.

Another favorite, and now the largest with 60 rooms, Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort is a lure for fishing pros. Formerly a Mexican general's home, the estate has grown into a collection of Mediterranean-style bungalows, popular with repeat travelers and fishing families looking for quieter good times. A sign at the reception reads: Work is for people who don't fish.

Don't let the laid back style fool you, Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort has combined the richness and romance of old Mexico with modern creature comforts. A swim up palapa bar, two natural mineral water spas and an abundance of nearby outdoor wonders can deliver a relaxing retreat or the perfect holiday for the more adventurous.

Hotel Buenavista owner Jesús "Chuy" Valdez fondly remembers how secret spots became hot spots as accessibility improved. "In the beginning, before Highway One was built in 1973, people came solely by private plane or boat. The East Cape airport was just a tent." And there was a time when guest rooms had no keys. "There was no need to lock the doors," says Valdez. "We finally had to install locks to be rated by AAA."

The Hotel Buena Vista Team Copa Gobernador won the 8th Annual East Cape Bisbee Fishing Tournament August 2007, reeling in a 418 pound blue marlin. In a stroke of luck, just before nailing the winning fish, the team fought another large marlin to the leader, but lost it. The fish that was lost was estimated at just over 300 pounds. The lost fish would have undoubtedly placed them third after two other teams who caught a 344 pound and a 317 pound blue marlin. Team Copa Gobernador decided to keep fishing until the bitter end. At 2:30 on the final afternoon the winning blue marlin hit.

This is the 4th year Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort has had the opportunity to partner with the Bisbee family and host this prestigious event. "It is an honor for our resort and family to be in partnership with the Bisbee name, as we have a shared belief regarding the safeguarding of our fisheries, both today and for the future," said Axel Valdez. The event will be hosted again at Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort in 2008 from July 29th-August 2nd.

Visitors to the East Cape will probably stay close to their hotel once they arrive. You can board the cruiser early in the morning, then take an afternoon walk on the endless beach, followed by a dip in the pool, and finally, enjoy a hearty hotel meal. There's nothing wrong with that picture.

Check the events calendar for annual art festivals and other interesting reasons to visit.

Why is Cabo so much fun? There is so much to do! Click here for a list of dive, watersports, fishing and tour operators. You'll also find links to Cabo's world class golf courses, spas, adventure tours, horseback riding, wedding coordinators and cruises.